5.10.2007

Behold, Virginia!

M and I have enjoyed good weather on this trip. I mean, we have had ridiculously good weather, especially for starting in early March. I can count on one hand the number of days that we've spent trudging through rain, but it's bound to happen sometimes.

Just north of Sarver Hollow Shelter, we passed a tree that had been struck by lightening during the previous day's storm. Given that it had been raining most of the night, it was rather disturbing that the tree was STILL on fire. I won't be hanging out on the ridgeline during a thunderstorm anytime soon. The fog that we woke up to didn't lift all day. The leaves have come out, so the forest was a muted version of the brilliant green of spring.

Along the ridgeline, we scrambled across a lot of wet, exposed rock face, barely keeping our footing. The views would have been spectacular, if not for the thick and persistent fog. Our rain gear became soaked from the inside out and the outside in. As the day progressed, the rain continued, and it didn't seem like it was going to stop any time soon. My shoes were soaked all the way through, so that every step I took made a little squishing sound. We were planning to make it to the Pickle Branch Shelter, and despite the weather, were doing ok with pacing, making the shelter long before dark. However, when we got there, we found the shelter already full of hikers, who had been holed up all day waiting out the rain.

From under one of the sleeping bags, we heard, "There you are, Cocoa and Monkey..."

It was Flick! We had finally caught up with our long-lost hiking partner, who we had been separated from for the past several weeks. He had linked up with some very cool people and they all quickly moved over to let us in the shelter, even though there was hardly any room left. That night we slept with Jake, Golden Boy, Caboose, Pegasus, Bushwacker, CB and Flick in a 6 person shelter. It rained persistently through the night, but by morning it had stopped, with most of the moisture coming down from the soggy tree leaves. Bushwacker spent two hours cultivating a fire using wet wood and a little bit of dryer lint, and eventually had a fire going hot enough to nearly melt his shoes and enough to partially dry out our clothing. We set off for the Dragon's Tooth with Pegasus and Flick about ten o'clock in the morning. It was a real shame to hear that Pegasus and Caboose were getting off the trail to go to a wedding and then to return to the world of paid employment - among other things, their packs contained the travel version of Settlers of Catan. We wish Pegasus the best of luck as he embarks on his new teaching assignment in South America.

Again, the views from Dragon's Tooth are reportedly spectacular, but we could see nothing but a big white cloud. The rock formation was impressive though and Pegasus' voice rang through the valley as he scrambled to the top and shouted, "Behold! Virginia!" - which has become something of a catch phrase for M and I. We started down the mountain, and after a brief detour as I mistakenly went down into a ravine, instead of the trail, we made it to the road crossing at Catawba. We walked about a mile into town to the Homeplace Restaurant, where we met Wirenut and his wife, who was visiting him on the trail. They offered a ride into the next town that had a motel. Since my feet were so wet that three of my (already damaged) toenails had fallen off, our clothes soaking wet, our sleeping bags damp, we jumped at the chance, and in a blink of an eye, were speeding down I81 to Daleville, VA with Wirenut, Mrs. Wirenut and Johnny Mudd. God bless the Econolodge and their hiker rates.

So does this mean that M and I skipped a portion of the trail? Well, at that moment, yes. But the next day, Johnny Mudd made it possible for us to go back to Catawba and hike properly into Daleville, so we can still claim to be authentic thru-hikers, although we have to admit that we are a little weak in the face of temptation, when it comes to rainy weather and motels.

Charlottesville, VA

We've arrived in Charlottesville, VA, having met up with one of my most favorite relatives, Aunt Mary, who has done so much for me over the years, including driving down to the AT crossing near Buena Vista to pick us up today. I've neglected this blog over the past couple of weeks, but don't you worry, I shall catch you up on all of our adventures including, but not limited to....

1. Tick removal
2. "Behold, Virginia!" - Mountains with Views in Southern VA
3. Wildflowers and Wildlife Encounters
4. Sleeping with Little Ollie, the ghost of Punchbowl Mountain
5. Ranger and the Seventh Attempt
6. Johnny Mudd and other Trail Magic

Also...Happy Birthday, Spike, who is 25 and congratulations to M's sister and my mother on their recent graduations.

5.07.2007

Falling Down

I worry sometimes that I write more about towns than the trail itself and that you are getting the impression that this hike is not very rugged. Well, truthfully, the AT is not that far removed from the general society you are familiar with. While walking the ridgelines, we can see farms and towns nestled in the valleys below. For the past few days, the distant roar of trucks on the interstate has been omnipresent and will continue as long as we follow the I-81 corridor through Virginia. We’ve been stopping in a lot more towns because they are there, within easy reach. While hiking is certainly the biggest part of the AT experience, meeting people along the way is a close second. But, this post is not about the Konorock Crew Trail leader or the church ladies of Bland, VA, or the anonymous guy in a pickup truck who gave us a ride without saying a word – for that stay tuned.

No… this post is a reminder that we are in the woods, doing outdoors-y things, lest you think we are getting soft. We crouch on the ground to cook and eat our meals. We pray for a privy, but often don’t find one at convenient intervals, therefore forcing us to dig a cathole (following the Leave No Trace principles, of course.) And we hike. All day. Up steep grades. Across streams. Over rocks and roots. It’s pretty strenuous exercise to be undertaking for ten or twelve hours a day. Sometimes our feet get tired, and we have a little trouble getting over the obstacles in the trail. And then we fall.

I’ve had a couple of doozies. There should be a photo of one of them posted soon. Don’t worry, M asked if I was ok before taking the picture. Last week, I was trotting down relatively clear and well-graded trail when something, probably a root, caught my foot. I hit the ground so fast, I even realize I fell until my face was already on the ground into the leaves. I think I got whiplash from it and also suffered from a stigmata-like wound in my right palm. A few days later, I was holding our little AM/FM radio in one hand while I attempted to tune in this station where a guy reads from this book called "Dear John." It’s not the most interesting story, but I’ve been listening to it on and off since Tennessee. Many automobile accidents occur when somebody momentarily takes their eyes off the road to change the radio station, and I learned that a similar danger occurs when hiking. I stepped off the trail, down into a ravine and got caught up in some brambles (a jagger bush, for all you yinzers). The picture of my fall was taken a few days ago. Once again, I was trying to go a little faster than my reflexes can handle, and I did a dramatic little hop-skip-jump-crash down the trail, which at the time, was following an old and very rocky forest service road. My pack was extremely heavy that day and I found myself unable to lift up my body. While I considered my options, M asked me if I was ok, then snapped a picture before hauling me to my feet. When we got to the bottom of the hill, I assessed the damage. A skinned knee, dirt covering my legs and arms, and some injured pride were all I suffered. But, as M said, I am starting to look a little "rough."
-K

4.30.2007

P-Burg to P-Burgh and back again

By now, lots of you may know that M and I left the trail for the weekend to surprise his little sister for her graduation. We didn't tell a soul we were coming and had great fun surprising people all weekend.

We rented a car in Pearisburg and are headed back there to return the car and get back to the business of hiking. Stay tuned for a spirited descriptiton of the events of this weekend.

4.29.2007

A Call To All...

For those of you who know me, it's fairly obvious that music plays a large part in my life. Hiking the trail hasn't removed me completely from music, though, as I did think to bring a couple of minidiscs and a small am/fm radio. However, many of the few albums I was able to carry along grew stale from lack of variety, and the endless stream of Nashville 'country', religious chat, and right-wing talking heads on the radio kinda had me down (to be fair, WETS is an awesome station when it comes in, I suggest you all check out 'Roots and Branches' on the online stream. VA's public radio is ok, too, but jumps around the dial a lot as it's broadcast on like 20 frequencies, and the music... well, not that good. The standard public radio classical or jazz mainly... but i digress, a lot.)

So, a solution was needed. And here it is found:

Basically, it's an iPod Shuffle, except it has a microSD slot to add more space and an FM tuner to get radio built in. Here's where you come in, my loyal readership...

Imagine you're on a desert island. A desert island made of mountains. Where you have to walk a lot, all the time. Up and down hills. Sometimes quickly. Now think to yourself... if I had only 1GB of space, one solitary Gigabyte, what would I like to listen to for eternity (or 4 months)? Would it be a batch of favourite albums? A special 'i sure have a long way to walk every day' mix? Ace of Base's 'The Sign' on repeat?

Whatever that special list of stuff would be, I want you to

  • put it in mp3 format
    (don't worry too much about quality - lower=smaller=more songs, but I can't use AAC's, so if they're apple files you'll need to convert)
  • burn it to a CD
    (or if you're feeling particularly generous or happen to have a spare microSD card lying around, directly on the card)
  • and send it to me at the following address:


M (use my whole, real name)
c/o General Delivery
Waynesboro, VA 22980
Hold for AT Thru-Hiker
ETA 5/14/2007


Send a letter or something, too, and let me know who you are and why you chose what you did. or don't. I'll be grateful for some new tunes...

Also, if you're super-fast you can try to reach us in Daleville, VA 24083, ETA 5/5/07. If you're too late, just leave a comment or send an email and we'll let you know where we're gonna be. Many thanks in advance!

4.27.2007

Fried Pickles, in response to Aunt Laine's question

Fried pickles are just what they sound like. I suppose there are probably several ways to do them, but the ones we had were kosher dill spears, battered and fried. Sort of like a mozzerella cheese stick or a fried mushroom, except with a pickle inside. Mmmm.

4.26.2007

Southwest Virginia Musings

Southwest Virginia has been pretty nice so far. Everybody says that Virginia is easy - well, I would NOT go that far. We are still in the mountains and there are plenty of ascents, descents, rocks, and roots. However, there also seems to be a fair amount of relatively level trail, with a nice clear footpath. We can listen to the pocket radio and get NPR programming from pretty much anywhere, now that we are close to towns on a regular basis. Some nice church group has been leaving bottled water at a lot of the road crossings, which is awesome. The weather has been absolutely gorgeous, and the spring plants and leaves are starting to come out. The aroma of the forest and fields we walk through can only be described as the scent of Green...a rich, lush, perfume-y smell. A few days ago, M and I ditched about ten pounds of gear, including our tent, and have been...

strolling along with lighter packs. We had our first adventure in tarp camping, which was largely a failure in simply dewy conditions, and would have been disastrous if it had rained, as the weather report predicted. So we are at the library, looking up tarp pitching methods so we can try again. The tent weighed almost six pounds and the tarp weighs just over one pound, including all stake and rope, so we are highly motivated to figure this out.

We've been hearing a lot about the shootings at Virginia Tech, since we pass pretty close to Blacksburg. A lot of VT students come from this area, and it's been evident that several towns we've come through have been personally affected by this tragedy, by the memorials set up and the names of students posted on every gas station and Dairy Queen sign along the road.

A couple of days ago, we met some awesome people from a Methodist church, who picked us up at the trail, gave us an all-you-can-eat breakfast, provided cards and stamps for us to send a note home, and sent us back to the trail with goody bags filled with home-baked muffins and cookies. There are a lot of churches along the trail who minister to hikers, and I have to admit, it's been somewhat puzzling to me. After all, none of us HAVE to be out there, so whatever supposed suffering comes from living outdoors and walking on punishing terrain is self-inflicted. Hikers are not a demographic that seems particularly at-risk, at least in the traditional definition. Isn't it kind of like being on vacation?

I was talking to M about this the other day, and we came to the conclusion that these churches see hikers as seeking something important, something that has been missing in their lives. It's a pretty big leap to give up everything you have at home, including your home itself, in a lot of cases, and do this long hike. If you are satisfied with what you had at home, you wouldn't do this. So I guess what has been troubling to me about all this ministry is that I am among that group of hikers...the church ladies see a void in me that I have been ignoring. By pretending that this is just a vacation, that I will just go home at the end of this and resume life, I've been ignoring the very things that drove me out here. It's not too often that I've been in a group that is ministered TO or served, usually I am among the providers.

The church ladies of Bland, VA "did Jesus right", as M and I said as we were leaving, by feeding body and soul, and loving us without knowing us.
[Read the full post]

Photo Relo...

Good day all... I've updated the photos from here in Pearisburg, VA, and have made a few changes to the organization. As previously the photos will be updated in sections, grouped by portions of our journey. I have, however, separated out the growing numbers of photos of plants (especially as the wildflowers are coming out in numbers) and animals (separated only the wild ones, cows &c. will still end up in the regular albums), as well as the photos of our old pal B. Hippo. I'll try to change the dates as new pics are added.

As the picasa albums allow for commenting, and I have no idea what many of these flora and fauna are, if any of you have a handy field guide to wildflowers or other things, please feel free to make a call on the species identification and leave a note. Hope you enjoy!

4.23.2007

Bland is anything but...

Greetings, all from Bland, Virginia. Sorry for lack of updated photos, the library access here won't allow for it, so we'll have to put them up in a few days from Pearisburg. All is well and we were treated to the most phenomenal breakfast this morning by the ATOM (Appalachian Trail Outreach Ministry) group from a local church, and are staying in town at a motel by the I-77 exit. More detailed updates of our exploits should follow within a few, but for now other errands call... Keep checking in!

4.19.2007

Troutdale, VA

We had an unexpected trip off the trail yesterday. We were at a road crossing, getting ready to hike the last 6 miles of the day, when a guy pulled up with about 8 hikers in the back of his truck. He was Jerry, of Jerry's Kitchen and Goods, and drove us to his little store/restaurant, where we dined on a variety of delicious fried pickles and potatoes. Yes, you heard that right. Then he took us up to the free hiker hostel at the Baptist Church. We had a hot shower, slept soundly under a proper roof, and returned to the store for breakfast. Now Jerry will drive us back to the trail. We are grateful for the hospitality. For any hikers reading this out there, Jerry's is the former Troutdale Trading Post, but is new and improved and the food is quite good.